I Tigli in Theoria is a Michelin starred modern Italian restaurant with fantastic pastry in a beautiful courtyard building in central Como. This was our first meal in Como – a large seven course lunch at the chef’s table with a view of the kitchen. Unfortunately, having just arrived after a 12-hour flight, it was difficult to fully enjoy what we were eating. Nonetheless, I’m glad I was able to squeeze in a visit and overall, I think it’s well worth having a meal here. The tasting menu costs around EUR 120 per person, which may be on the high end for a one-star restaurant in Italy but given the overall quality, I think it’s warranted.
Great Space and Service
Firstly, the team at Theoria is quick to respond to email requests. I made my bookings on line and had to reschedule, which given the size of our group (ten) can be a pain for most restaurants. They were very accommodative and offered us the Chef’s table without me asking. Also as we drove straight to Como from Malpensa, some of us had our wheelie bags with us as we didn’t want to leave valuables in the car. Theoria stored the bags for us. I gather that it’s not an unusual request but it’s nonetheless nice that the were willing to help and also had the space to do so. The service was consistently professional throughout our meal. If I had to complain it’s probably that a bit more wit and warmth by the wait staff would have been fantastic.
Without a doubt, Theoria’s setting is special. The first thing one sees is the open courtyard, which would be great for al fresco dining on a nice day. The rest of the tables in the restaurant curl around the windows looking into the courtyard. But the Chef’s Table is definitely the most special because there is a window to the main kitchen as well as the pastry room.
Theoria is located in a restricted zone, between the waterfront and Como’s Duomo. It is behind the Albergo Terminus. We parked (in the Autorimessa Jasca) in the basement of a building off Piazza Alessandro Volta, which was just a five minute walk away. If we had come to eat here after checking into our hotel in Bellagio, we would have taken the ferry. Reservations are recommended and Theoria has a nice website with online booking.
Besides the a la carte menu, Theoria has two tasting menus of which one is fish based and the other is meat. There is also a shorter lunch menu. In other to try both tasting menus, half our group had the fish and the other the meat. It’s nice that there are two such tasting menus to choose from and because the number of courses are the same, there’s no problem with the timing for the kitchen. This means that the entire table is not forced to eat the same tasting menu. And so we can try more that the restaurant offers.
After snacking on the above crackers, breadsticks and amuse bouche, which the restaurant calls the “Welcome by the Chef”, we started with our courses. I’ve noticed that Theoria will change its menu regularly and offers a highly seasonally varied offering. The following is from October 2016.
The Meat Menu
The Fish Menu
More after the meal
While our tasting menu ended after the main desserts, it was by no means the end of the fun. There was another dessert, served alongside coffee – which is part of the tasting menu. In addition, the petit fours was also a feast for the eyes. They certainly like their pastries at Theoria.