Tired of hearing the negative stories about the town’s diminishing fortunes, Nishino Farmhouse Restaurant opened in Takehara to showcase the homestyle cooking and fresh produce in the area. Like so many of Japan’s rural towns, Takehara sits just on the fringe of a large metropolis (Hiroshima in this case) but slumbers, its contributions forgotten, and emblematic of the country’s aging challenges. The area was previously renowned for its fantastic potatoes, which the restaurant’s octogenarian cooking team happily uses to turn into the best potato croquettes I have ever tasted.

According to the restaurant, the area’s Yoshina potatoes commanded the highest price in the 1950s and 1960s in Japan but production has since fallen 70%, unable to compete with the mass produced potatoes from Hokkaido. As a result, Yoshina potatoes are mainly produced in small farms and only available in the Kansai area. They remain highly regarded for its sweetness.

But Nishino is much more that just croquettes. I visited the last day before the restaurant closed for the new year holidays and being a Sunday, a buffet lunch was served. The spread included a variety of deliciously sautéed seasonal vegetables, stewed daikon with chicken and homemade tofu, all supplied from nearby farms. All fish used are caught wild off the nearby bay. Then there was an incredible array of potato dishes including shepherd’s pie, a potato “futomaki”, and hot croquettes fresh from the kitchen and brought to our table.

This is Japanese comfort food at its best. And there is nothing more charming that to see such a happy cooking team. The “grandmas” infuse the restaurant with a warmth and joy so that it is more like visiting your favourite Aunt’s home. But one with tons of good food. Pricing is very reasonable – the restaurant’s normal omakase menu is just JPY1,000.

How to get here: Alas, you’d need a car. We took a train to Mihara and continued on by car to Takehara. Nishino Farmhouse Restaurant is further along on the edge of the town. The address is Yatsushiro, Yoshinacho in Takehara-shi (Hiroshima Valley). Tel.no. 0846-28-0284.