Andre – Still the Premier Restaurant in Singapore

Update – Restaurant Andre has closed (Feb. 2018).

Restaurant Andre remains on top of my list for fine-dining restaurants in Singapore. My one gripe is that dinner here is quite pricey so coming for lunch was much more palatable and no less satisfying. Frankly, its two Michelin stars were no surprise to me. I’ve always found that Chef Andre’s cooking is pleasingly creative but easy to eat as well and that his standards are on par with that of many illustrious restaurants elsewhere.

Andre only serves a set menu and lunch consisted of a three-course starter, followed by four mains and two desserts. It’s a fair amount of food for lunch at SGD200 per person. The produce quality is high as expected and we had a good Bresse chicken as one of our mains. This is a highly lauded chicken from Bresse in Burgundy and is the only chicken whose production is held to specific standards and must only come from Bresse – “Appellation d’Origine Controle” or AOC – not unlike the same classification one sees on french wines. These chooks are reared for a longer period of six to nine months and given more room to roam so their meat is flavourful and with a firmer consistency. Only around 1.2 million birds are produced annually and exports are limited.  You could say that this is the penultimate chicken.

Bresse chicken is cooked in a salted ash bread and sliced at the table
Bresse chicken is cooked in a salted ash bread and sliced at the table

Having experienced Chef Andre’s cooking from the time he was at Jaan and at the beginning few years of his current restaurant, it’s nice to see that his cooking (I think) has continued to get better. The dishes have gotten increasingly sophisticated mixing a wide variety both Asian and Western ingredients. Also, his desserts have improved markedly. Our meal’s two desserts were both very good and not heavy. I’m not a dessert person but I happily ate up both.

The restaurant has a decent wine list and sommelier Ken has selected some nice burgundies. We enjoyed a Jean Jacques Morel 2013 Traversaine St. Aubin. Honestly, prices of wine in most restaurants in Singapore are eyebrow raising so the St. Aubin is just about in an acceptable range. In the end, lunch, wine, water and coffee cost us around SGD300 each including taxes and service charge.

Restaurant Andre is open for lunch on Wednesday and Friday only. Dinner is available on all days except Monday and alternate Sundays. Details and online reservations are found on its website (restaurantandre.com). Best to reserve at least three weeks in advance.

Starters consisted of a seafood tamara, abalone/liver/crispy combo and fish & chips
Starters consisted of a seafood tamara, abalone/liver/crispy kombu and fish & chips (the fish is wrapped in potato)
Scallop with mushroom and tofu accompanied with a kombucha granite
Scallop with nicely charred mushroom and tofu accompanied with a kombucha granite
"Terre et Mer" or Surf & Turf consisted of the best horse mackerel (on left) and a mussel tartare with cured lardo and a pork trotter sauce
“Terre et Mer” consisted of the best horse mackerel I’ve had (on left) and a mussel (oysters for others) tartare with cured lardo and a pork trotter reduction
The Bresse chicken is wrapped in seaweed before it's baked in the bread. Once removed, it's served with grilled leek flower, egg noodles and a truffle and mushroom emulsion
The Bresse chicken is wrapped in seaweed before it’s baked in the bread. Once removed, it’s served with grilled leek flower, egg noodles and a truffle and mushroom emulsion
Dessert #1: Porcini "iced cream", yuba (soy milk skin) and buttermilk curd
Dessert #1: Porcini “iced cream”, yuba (soy milk skin) and buttermilk curd
Dessert #2: The most amazing carbonated grapes and peach parfait is underneath the raspberry ice layer and the scoop of honey ice cream - excellent!
Dessert #2: The most amazing carbonated grapes and peach parfait is underneath the raspberry ice layer and the scoop of honey ice cream – excellent!
Petit Fours - we ate up all of these as well
Petit Fours – we ate up all of these as well