Palermo’s Vitina Cucina & Pizza – One of My Fave Dinners is Near the Airport

Vitina's Cassatella

Palermo was our first port of call in a wine visit to Sicily and our first night in the city yielded one of my favorite dinners at a casual neighborhood restaurant not far from the airport. Vitina Cucina & Pizza in the Cinisi area of Palermo specializes in seafood and pizza. Standouts for me included the grilled squid and shrimp and pistachio pasta while dessert, a ricotta cassatella was fantastic.

After a flight from Rome, dinner at Vitina was a great way to start our trip in Sicily. Our main reason for being in Palermo was to visit the Cusumano winery and as such, we stayed nearby in the Magaggiari Hotel Resort. Normally, I’d prefer to stay in town but this worked well for us.

Magaggiari Hotel as the sun sets on the rocky hills of Palermo
Decent place to stay in Palermo – the Magaggiari Hotel

Vitina is just a short (less than five minutes) walk from the hotel and was recommended to us by a local contact. The restaurant is casual – it reminds me of our local coffeeshops in Singapore and Malaysia. The restaurant filled with local diners – always a good sign – as the evening progressed reflecting the fact that we were out of the tourist zone.

Vitina Cucina & Pizza in Cinisi, Palermo
Entrance to the restaurant

Since Sicily is blessed with fresh produce and seafood, we stuck with these offerings on Vitina’s menu, starting with a fritto misto – mixed fried prawns, squid and scallops – and bruschetta with tomatoes (aka Trapani Bruschetta).

Bruschetta at Vitina Cucina & Pizza
Really nice fresh and sweet tomatoes drizzled with olive oil – simple but so good
Vitina's Fritto Misto
Fritto Misto – the squid is a standout
Vitina Cucina & Pizza good wine and food
This white wine went well with our fresh seafood

Sometimes all you need is a good bottle of white and nice fried fresh seafood. We decided to try one of Cusumano’s white wines, which was on Vitina’s wine list, – the Angimbe 2013. This was a nice crisp medium bodied white with citrus hints that went well with our food.

We followed up the starters with pasta and pizza, a grilled squid, sardine fishballs and grilled vegetables. The grilled squid was the noted on the menu as the catch of the day and we were lucky to grab this before it sold out. It was outstanding but generally the other food was very good.

Vitina's fresh grilled squid stands out
Fantastic grilled squid – fresh squid nicely charred with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon

We had three types of pizza – a Quattro Formaggio (four cheeses which were mozzarella, gorgonzola, a smoked cheese and emmenthal), a Rianella (tomato, mozzarella, pecorino, garlic, anchovies and oregano oil) and one that I think was called the Waimea (tomato base, mozzarella, spicy salami, peppers, hot chilli pepper, and arugula).

Good pizza at Vitina
I think this one is called the Waimea pizza
Good pizza at Vitina
Rianella pizza
Vitina's pizza
Quattro Formaggio pizza

We also had three pastas of which one was geared toward a friend who’s allergic to shell fish and nuts but is okay with sea urchin. So there was one spaghetti with just sea urchin but the pasta that includes clams (vongole) is better. The other pasta was with shrimp, cherry tomatoes, chopped pistachios, garlic cream and zucchini. This was very good.

Vitina's pasta is also a standout
The pasta with cherry tomatoes and chopped pistachios – very good
Vitina's pasta with sea urchin
Spaghetti with sea urchin and clams

We ended our meal with a ricotta cassatella – excellent – after years of trying Sicilian desserts in Italian restaurants outside of Sicily, you just can’t beat the real thing.

Vitina's Cassatella
Ricotta Cassatella – so light and fresh

I’m sure that there are other very good restaurants in Palermo but this ended up being one of my favorite dinners in my April wine tour of Italy. I think the combination of good food, knowledgable and friendly service, a clean casual environment, and affordable pricing made Vitina very memorable.

Alas, Vitina has no website but their phone number is +39-327-6540460. Bookings are recommended and go early before the place gets busy, some local reviews point to a drop in quality at peak periods.