Isshin – For True Meat Lovers, Raw or Cooked

Isshin Kyoto

This is beef, possibly at its utmost incarnation. Isshin presents the best parts of high quality Japanese cattle, from tongue to tail, in a variety of Kyoto kaiseki inspired interpretations including one that resembles the local sushi. While I had some reservations about this 2-Star Michelin restaurant, particularly as it involves eating raw beef, it was probably the best food experience I’ve had in recent months. Dishes were creative but were careful to highlight the natural taste and texture of good beef. This includes rare cuts such as the inner shoulder that only yields a small portion of meat. Basically, chef Hideichi Katagiri is a beef deity.

Isshin Kyoto
Entrance of the restaurant – look for the name on the sign board by the lantern

We could tell that Chef Katagiri has spent his lifetime experimenting on what he can do with beef. It’s a good thing that the texture remains recognizable as that’s one of the joys of eating meat. There’s no whizzing, dry ice or other ploys – just unique ways to enhance the best quality beef beyond just having a grilled steak.

As with most Kyoto eateries, space is limited, and consists mainly of sitting around the counter watching the Chef at work. In this instance, Chef Katagiri comes across as fairly stern while he is focused on the preparation of the food (he noticeably relaxed at the end of the meal). Luckily his wife smiles enough for the both of them. He doesn’t mind photos being taken as long as it’s silent. Alas, this meant I had to put my relatively noisy DSLR away and use the iPhone.

Isshin Kyoto
Raw beef shoulder with eggplant in a ponzu sauce
Isshin Kyoto
Clockwise from the top left: a curry flavored roast beef, beef shoulder with miso and tripe with uni
Isshin Kyoto
Beef tongue on a “dango” dumpling made of shrimp and yuzu
Isshin Kyoto
Smoked beef shoulder with citrus, tomatoes, endive with a coconut dressing and pine nuts
Isshin Kyoto
One of the highlights: sashimi beef tongue with konbu
Isshin Kyoto
Kyoto leeks, mushrooms and oxtail in a dashi broth
Isshin Kyoto
The sushi platter: “otoro” beef marinated in sake and soy sauce, beef futomaki and seared beef shoulder sushi
Isshin Kyoto
Beef tongue stewed with gingko nuts, yuba (tofu skin), lily bulbs and a touch of yuzu
Isshin Kyoto
A “sponge cake” made of soy sauce foam which accompanies the grilled beef
Isshin Kyoto
Grilled beef
Isshin Kyoto
The final dish – a “porridge” of beef tongue with the barley rice pops a nice addition from just normal rice. Accompanied by pickles.
Isshin Kyoto
Dessert – no beef, but a red bean creme brûlée with sake ice cream

Isshin is located in the historical Gion area of Kyoto, a few blocks north of Gion-Shijo station and thus easy to reach on foot from most central hotels. There is counter space to fit around 11 diners and a private room to pack in a few more. Needless to say, reservations are a must. In fact, we were originally wait-listed, benefiting from a cancelation.

The cost of the omakase meal (no a la carte menu) is around JPY13,000. Given the quality of the meat offered and the care taken into each course, I thought it was decently priced. I would love to come back in a different season such as summer to see what lighter dishes have been created.

Isshin has no website, but it’s phone number is: 075-531-5311.

Address: 51 Motoyoshicho, Shinbashi-dori, Gion

The restaurant is closed on Monday but otherwise open for dinner from 6pm, with the latest seating being 7:30pm.