No rolling stones here. One of the most enchanting gardens in Kyoto is that belonging to Kokedera (also known as Saiho-ji) or the Moss Temple. As its name suggests, it’s known for its moss. In my view, it’s well worth the trip to Kyoto’s western district to visit this garden.

I came here in June 2014 on a very hot day. We had a 10 am visit slot and since we didn’t want to be late, we took a taxi from our hotel to Kokedera. It was only a 20 minute ride, although our hotel told us to factor in around 30 minutes,  so we were a bit early. Once there, we went first into the temple where we sat on the floor and waited for the monks to start the chants. This didn’t happen until most of the other visitors for the same time slot arrived. The monks gave me a paper that provided the words to the chant but it was done at a very rapid pace so I was totally lost anyway.

After this, which probably took around 15 minutes (it felt longer as we early), we were led to the garden. Although we are not supposed to wander around on our own, our “minder” was not that aggressive (not like the guards at the imperial villas) and really didn’t chase those of us who lagged behind taking photos of every single leaf. I’m not sure what the garden will look like in winter when the trees are less lush but I’m sure the moss will still be enchanting.

Approval and Access:

As you need to get permission to visit Kokedera by writing in (you also have to arrange a self-addressed postcard in the note so that they can respond), I think it’s much easier to get your hotel concierge or a friend in Japan to arrange this for you. But you’ll need to do it at least seven days in advance (I would suggest at least two weeks to be safe). There are also agents willing to do this for a fee. Spaces are not as limited as that to visit the imperial villas so it’s probably an easier get. In other words, don’t be put off by the approval process. The visit should take around one hour at Kokedera. Photos inside the temple are not allowed.

You can catch a cab or bus to get to and fro Kokedera and Arashiyama or central Kyoto. Depending on where you are, buses no. 28, 63 and 73 take you close to Kokedera or you could also take the Hankyu Kyoto / Arashiyama train line, which involves around a 15 minute walk from the station to Kokedera.

Useful Links:

Kyoto Bus and Train planner: http://www.arukumachikyoto.jp/index.php?lang=en

Kokedera information and how to apply to visit: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3937.html