{"id":101,"date":"2015-05-14T14:31:02","date_gmt":"2015-05-14T06:31:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/?p=101"},"modified":"2019-02-03T17:50:49","modified_gmt":"2019-02-03T09:50:49","slug":"benu-modernizing-asian-cuisine-elegantly","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/2015\/05\/14\/benu-modernizing-asian-cuisine-elegantly\/","title":{"rendered":"San Francisco’s Benu – Modernizing Asian Cuisine Elegantly"},"content":{"rendered":"

As I prepared to write this note on Benu, I recall thinking after our meal that the restaurant was certainly worthy of its Michelin stars (two) at the time. Since I was there in October 2014, the restaurant has been awarded its third star. I think this is obviously great recognition for Chef Corey Lee\u2019s efforts to lift and modernize fine Asian food without losing aspects of the dish that people love. While Benu may be classified as fusion (it\u2019s described as \u2018new American fare\u2019 on Google Maps), I think it still leans more to towards its Asian characteristics – mainly Chinese, Japanese and Korean – and as such, avoids being too heavy handed in taste and\/or confusing for diners. For this reason, I think Benu is arguably one of the best modern Asian restaurants and worth a visit to when in San Francisco.<\/p>\n

\"Entrance<\/a>
Entrance to the restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The restaurant\u2019s entrance is tucked inside a courtyard just a block over from the St Regis Hotel and opposite the W. So, it\u2019s within walking distance for most visitors staying at any of the hotels around Union Square. My husband and I had just come from a visit to Yosemite National Park and hadn\u2019t packed clothes more formal than what can be described as \u201ccountry club appropriate\u201d. So we called ahead to find out if jeans were acceptable and happily it was. While I felt underdressed in the restaurant, this was mainly due to how well other patrons were dressed, as Benu\u2019s staff were more than welcoming.<\/p>\n

The restaurant decor is probably best described as Zen – clean lines that feel sparse. This would be consistent with the presentation of the food – more Japanese influence here. Some of the plating is beautiful.<\/p>\n

Also in the tradition of most fine Japanese eateries, Benu only serves an omakase (degustation) dinner. This means an a la carte offering is not available. The dishes change depending on what produce is available seasonally and daily. For this reason, to make the most of Benu, you have to come hungry, enjoy shellfish, and be prepared to pay more than USD270 per person (inclusive of service charge). So, pricing is in the realm of Japan\u2019s sushi temples and more expensive than some of Europe\u2019s Michelin 3-starred restaurants.<\/p>\n

\"You<\/a>
You can see the kitchen from the street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In defence of the cost, Benu\u2019s omakase dinner consists of around 18 courses and may comprise ingredients such as foie gras, conch, fish maw, lobster and other fine fish. A lot of thought and skill has gone into each morsel. But, if after looking at the menu, you are only craving the xiao long bao and steamed fish, going to a good Chinese restaurant may be preferable. I can imagine one the criticisms from some patrons (I\u2019m thinking of some of my relatives) is that you may feel like you\u2019re paying a lot for a dumpling.<\/p>\n

I do have to give a shout out to Benu\u2019s sommelier Yooh Ha, he was friendly and helpful in his recommendations. Since we’re not familiar with Californian wines, we were keen to try something local. As we like\u00a0French chardonnays – generally less fruity with a bit more oak, Yoon Ha suggested the Mt. Eden Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2012, which we enjoyed. And we\u00a0also had a glass of the Peay Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2012. Yoon Ha\u00a0also gave us a list of other places to go eat in San Francisco – one where we had a good dinner and another, a fine lunch.<\/p>\n

Contact Benu: www.benusf.com<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Our Dinner<\/b><\/p>\n

Benu\u2019s traditional starter is called a thousand year-old quail egg served in a potage with ginger. I don\u2019t have a good picture of this but safe to say, it looks like half of a Chinese century egg in a thick soup. However, it doesn\u2019t have the heavy ammonia smell of the century egg. Since I love the traditional century egg, especially when slightly soft, Benu\u2019s version didn\u2019t excite me on its own but it went well with the potage.<\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Course<\/a>
Course 3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our second course – cherry blossom, red bean and pistachio. \u00a0Next (No. 3) came the oyster, pork belly and Kimchi except that mine didn\u2019t have the oyster (I don\u2019t eat oysters). This was followed by\u00a0eel wrapped in a feuille de brick, served with creme fraiche. I don\u2019t have a good picture but the wrapped eel looked like a bread stick. It went very nicely with the creme fraiche.<\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 5<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Course<\/a>
Course 6<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

No. 5 was\u00a0deep-fried anchovy with celery and peanuts – reminded me of a Malaysian dish called ikan bilis and Japanese shirimi also. No. 6 was homemade sunflower tofu – nice and delicate. This was followed by a slice of XO sausage – looks like a salami slice – accompanied by a cube of basil curd (not pictured).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bread<\/a>
Ginseng and honey butter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

No. 8\u00a0– Beggar\u2019s purse of treasures from the oak. I enjoyed this dumpling, that if I recall correctly, contained truffle and Iberico ham. Following this, grain bread with ginseng and honey butter was served – a nice surprise that marked the end of the series of “starters”.<\/p>\n

\"Palm\"<\/a>
Palm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Benu<\/a>
Jujube<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Benu<\/a>
Gingko nut<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Next was a three-part course, comprising palm,\u00a0jujube\u00a0and gingko nut.\u00a0Following this three part course, is one of Benu\u2019s signature dishes – the lobster coral xiao long bao (in the main picture of this article). The xiao long bao was excellent – the skin was delicate and smooth and the lobster adds a nice springiness compared to the traditional filling.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 11<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Course<\/a>
Course 12<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dishes were now getting more substantial in taste. We had the Japanese spiny conch (No. 11) followed by fish maw with potato, lemon-sesame (No. 12) and coriander.<\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 13<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Course<\/a>
Course 14<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

No. 13 is another favourite – jellyfish-wrapped shrimp, caviar and horseradish. This was delicious with the shrimp nicely cooked (not overdone). No. 14 was\u00a0sablefish, wild bamboo funghi, cabbage and hot mustard. This reminded me of a Cantonese dim sum that comprises bean curd sheet (like yuba) wrapped fish paste that is steamed. Benu’s version is much more refined.<\/p>\n

\"Course<\/a>
Course 15<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Supplement<\/a>
Supplement course<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

No. 15 was roast quail, mountain yam, barley and pea shoots.\u00a0We then added a supplemental course of Okhotsk sea cucumber stuffed with shrimp, cucumber, perilla and fermented pepper. I love sea cucumber – mainly for its heavy gelatinous texture as this seafood doesn\u2019t have much of its own taste. I think I was just happy to see this on the menu. It did not beat my aunt\u2019s braised sea cucumber but Benu\u2019s was good too, and much prettier.<\/p>\n

\"No.<\/a>
No. 17<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Course<\/a>
Course 18<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

No. 17 was beef rib, shitake mushroom, burdock and charred scallion. The beef was tender and still flavourful (I prefer\u00a0to taste beef without sauces). Next, No. 18, came another signature –\u00a0\u201cShark fin soup\u201d, dungeness crab, Jinhua ham custard. It\u2019s not real sharks\u2019 fin – thank goodness – as I try not to eat sharks\u2019 fin on environmental grounds. I really enjoyed this dish.\u00a0I think crab and savoury custard – which is more like the Japanese chawan mushi here, but with the stronger Jinhua ham flavour – is always a nice combination. The fake sharks\u2019 fin adds a welcome texture contrast.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The end…dessert!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At the end of our meal, we had a yuzu sorbet (not pictured) followed by a dessert comprising fresh and dried yuba, almond and white chocolate. I\u2019m a big yuba fan so I couldn\u2019t be happier with this dessert.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As I prepared to write this note on Benu, I recall thinking after our meal that the restaurant was certainly worthy of its Michelin stars (two) at the time. Since I was there in October 2014, the restaurant has been awarded its third star. I think this is obviously great recognition for Chef Corey Lee\u2019s […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":111,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[104,153,17],"tags":[41,55,39,43,37,38,40],"class_list":["post-101","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-michelinstar","category-northamerica","category-usa-northamerica","tag-asian_food","tag-california","tag-chinese_food","tag-featured","tag-michelin_star","tag-san_francisco","tag-seafood","latest_post"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=101"}],"version-history":[{"count":18,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3950,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101\/revisions\/3950"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/111"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=101"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=101"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=101"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}