{"id":49,"date":"2015-05-14T16:57:51","date_gmt":"2015-05-14T08:57:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/?p=49"},"modified":"2019-02-03T17:50:30","modified_gmt":"2019-02-03T09:50:30","slug":"kanazawa-little-kyoto-big-garden-great-seafood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gazeandgraze.com\/wordpress\/2015\/05\/14\/kanazawa-little-kyoto-big-garden-great-seafood\/","title":{"rendered":"Kanazawa – Little Kyoto, Big Garden, Great Seafood"},"content":{"rendered":"

Now that the bullet train between Tokyo and Kanazawa is running (started March 2015), reaching this seafood haven on Japan\u2019s west coast is much easier. Easily slotted into a trip between Kyoto and Tokyo, I think there\u2019s enough to fill at least a one full day or two day stopover – two nights best, so you can squeeze in a couple of dinners. Kanazawa has been referred to as \u201cLittle Kyoto\u201d due to areas which retain their Edo era look but I think the best reason\u00a0to visit (besides for the great seafood) is Kenroku-en, known to be one of the three great gardens of Japan.<\/p>\n

I arrived into Kanazawa by road from Shirakawa-go, which in itself is a pleasant and scenic journey through the Hida mountains. Our first move that evening was dinner at Koide, a highly regarded but relatively expensive Izakaya (casual bar that serves food). While it has got a decent selection of local and regional sake, I think Koide\u2019s strength is actually its food. The sashimi, crab and grilled nodoguro (black throat sea perch – a fish) were very fresh and a good size.<\/p>\n

\"Koide's<\/a>
Koide’s sashimi platter only contains what’s fresh for the day<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As no one at Koide speaks english and its menu is only in Japanese, I asked the concierge team at the Hotel Nikko, where we were staying, to help translate the menu for us. Both Koide and the concierge were extremely helpful, with Koide faxing over their menu on the day itself, since this changes daily.<\/p>\n

\"Itaru<\/a>
Itaru Honten is lively, proof that the sake is flowing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The other Izakaya we went to was Itaru Honten, extremely popular with locals so reservations are a must. The food quality is a notch lower than Koide but it has a convivial atmosphere and is very reasonable.<\/p>\n

\"Delicious<\/a>
Delicious toppings for rice and condiments at Omicho market<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Crab<\/a>
Crab was in season<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For our one full day in Kanazawa, we started the morning with a walk to Omicho market. Omicho pales in comparison to Tokyo\u2019s famous Tsukiji and to the variety of Kyoto\u2019s Nishiki, but it was still fun to walk through for an idea of the local fish and produce. The best fish from the Sea of Japan flow through Kanazawa. So, no surprise, we ended up having a late breakfast at a sushi restaurant, Yamasan Sushi, at the market. Excellent way to start the day!<\/p>\n

\"Kanazawa<\/a>
Kanazawa Castle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We then walked on to Kanazawa castle and through its grounds to Kenroku-en. We opted to skip going into the castle structures, as most of its buildings are recent reconstructions. But the walk through its park gates should provide some sense of the place and is a nice way to approach the garden.<\/p>\n

I would allocate around two hours at Kenroku-en, especially if you\u2019ve got a camera – there are lots of photogenic spots. Kenroku-en, which spans more than 11 hectares,\u00a0 is a great garden to stroll around, it\u2019s landscape changes as you move around so you actually don\u2019t get much repetition in scenes. Being here in winter was special as snow covered some of the ground. But I would love to come here in late spring when the irises and azaleas are out.<\/p>\n

\"Kenroku-en,<\/a>
Kenroku-en, pictured here and in the main pic at the top<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After Kenroku-en, we walked toward the Kanazawa Museum of Contemporary Art where we\u00a0 stopped by for a cake and coffee.<\/p>\n

\"Good<\/a>
Good cake and pastries at the Museum of Contemporary Art<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The cake was really good – no surprise given the high quality of everything we\u2019d eaten thus far. I would have loved to have time to visit the museum\u2019s exhibits but\u00a0 we had to be at Myoryuji temple by 2:30 pm for a visit.<\/p>\n

\"Myoryuji<\/a>
Myoryuji – more popularly known as Ninja temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Myoryuji is better known as Ninja Temple, due to its many secret passageways, but it\u2019s actually a buddhist temple built during the Edo period. It\u2019s around an hour long guided visit so you have to book a slot in advance. This can be arranged through your hotel concierge if you have problems contacting them yourself. After the seriousness of Japan\u2019s other temples\u00a0 and shrines, Myoryuji is unique and well worth a visit, and a place that kids would probably enjoy. The guides only speak Japanese but they have prepared leaflets with the english translation.<\/p>\n

\"Samurai<\/a>
Samurai district as the sun sets<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After Myoryuji, we walked back down the hill and across the river towards the Nagamachi Samurai District. We had a nice view of the city and the surrounding mountains on the way. You can visit one or two of the well preserved Samurai houses here but our main reason to visit was to buy Kutani porcelain from Kaburaki, which has a large selection in their Nagamachi store.\u00a0 Kutani porcelain originated in the Kanazawa area so if you\u2019re a fan of ceramics, this is another good reason to come to Kanazawa. For the same item, I noticed that prices are lower here than in Kyoto and Tokyo.<\/p>\n

By this time, sun was setting, and we were due for our dinner at Itaru Honten. If you have more time in Kanazawa than I did, you may want to spend some time in the Geisha district (Higashi Chaya). I opted to skip this as I\u2019d just been to Kyoto, which I think has a more established and larger Geisha area.<\/p>\n

If you are lucky enough to get a reservation, and are a fan of sushi, one of Japan\u2019s sushi master chefs is in Kanazawa. His restaurant, Komatsu Yasuke, only opens for lunch and is often booked out months in advance. I wasn\u2019t lucky enough so I\u2019ve got to come back to Kanazawa before he retires. Also, I\u2019ve got to see Kenroku-en again and to buy more Kutani porcelain. Thank goodness for the bullet train.<\/p>\n

\"Kanazawa<\/a>
Hida mountain range in the background<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Suggested Itinerary<\/b><\/p>\n

Access: <\/b>Kanazawa sits on the west coast of Central Honshu. The nearest airport is Komatsu – around 40 minutes drive from the town centre or one hour by airport bus. If you\u2019ve flown into Tokyo, however, do try the bullet train to Kanazawa, which takes around two and a half hours. As with other cities in Japan, Kanazawa is well connected by train. Incidentally, a bullet train to Nagano takes around one and a half hours and an express train to Kyoto from Kanazawa will take around two hours and fifteen minutes. Kanazawa can also be reached easily by road from UNESCO heritage sites Shirakawa-go and Takayama. A regular bus service runs through the three destinations but do reserve your tickets in advance especially during peak season.<\/p>\n

Stay:<\/b> I stayed in the Hotel Nikko, which is conveniently located near the train station. Its concierge team was the best I\u2019ve encountered so far – extremely responsive to my emails prior to my arrival and keen to help.\u00a0 Besides Hotel Nikko, there are a number of other hotels near the station. Most of Kanazawa\u2019s sights are within walking distance and there also two dedicated tourist bus routes\u00a0around the town, hitting all the main attractions.<\/p>\n

Length of Stay:<\/b> I was here for two nights but essentially only one day. I would suggest two nights and two days stay instead – which is what I\u2019ve set out below. You can also opt to use Kanazawa as a base for visiting Shirakawa-go (around one hour\u2019s drive), which would make a good day trip. It would also be a good gateway for a drive up the Noto Peninsula.<\/p>\n

Other Tips:<\/strong> If you would like to eat in Komatsu Yasuke, Itaru Honten or Koide, it’s best to make a reservation in advance. See the links\/contacts\u00a0at the bottom of this article.<\/p>\n

Day One:<\/b><\/p>\n